A walk through retro, nature and history
A couple's trip to Kyoto Umekoji, a hidden gem for adults

"Hey, do you want to go to Kyoto?"

This trip to Kyoto started with my wife's suggestion. I wondered if there was somewhere we could relax... That's when I found out about the Umekoji area of Kyoto.

The JR Umekoji Kyoto-Nishi Station, the closest station to the Umekoji area, is a new station that just opened in 2019. There are plenty of tourist spots around the station, including Kyoto City's first full-scale aquarium, the Kyoto Aquarium, and Japan's largest railway museum, the Kyoto Railway Museum. Recently, new restaurants have started to appear, and there is apparently a shopping street lined with old and new shops and restaurants.
It is just one stop from Kyoto Station on the Sanin Main Line (Sagano Line). If you continue heading north, you can access popular tourist areas such as Saga and Arashiyama.

Since I still had some time before check-in, I decided to leave my luggage at the hotel and take a walk around Umekoji Park.

Umekoji Park is a large city park that boasts a considerable area, and has many places to relax, such as the "Suzaku Garden," which overlooks a beautiful Japanese garden, and the restored biotope "Forest of Life." In the spacious lawn, you can see people, probably locals, enjoying a picnic with their children. While enjoying the shower of greenery, you will be taken aback by the beautiful greenery that reflects the babbling brook.

"It's hot and humid out here, but strangely enough it's cool inside the park."
"The green is nice"

"Coming to Kyoto and taking a walk in the park is not a bad idea."

After finishing our walk feeling completely refreshed, we head out into the town.

"There's a store I'd like to try."

So we headed to WineRoom17, a wine shop located at the intersection of Shichijo-dori and Shichihonmatsu-dori. The couple had researched local wine shops in advance to enjoy wine, a shared hobby of theirs.

When I opened the door to the store, the owner, Mr. Ito, greeted me.

"The shelves are lined with wines from different countries. White, red, sparkling, etc. If you tell us what you like, we can make recommendations."

They stock wines from various regions, both domestic and international, and only sell the ones that Mr. Ito personally considers to be good. As it is a local wine shop, most of the customers are people who live nearby.

"Um, actually, I want to have a drink at the hotel later."

When I told them, they brought me sparkling wine from Kyoto winery Tanba Wine. Apparently each bottle is bottled by hand, and it's a nice size of 500ml, which is just the right size to drink in one sitting. Sparkling wine is perfect for the hot summer. I also bought a cheese set as a snack.

After checking in, we headed straight to our room. We both agreed that a slightly larger room would be nice, so we chose the Corner Deluxe Twin room. We were happy to see Kyoto Tower from our room. Although compact, it was a mix of modern elements and Japanese-style elements such as vertical lattices and shoji screens.

"Hey, it looks like there's a large public bath too. I think I'll go and check it out right away."

While I gazed blankly at Kyoto Tower outside the window, my wife quickly got ready and headed to the large public bath. It's nice to be able to stretch your legs and relax in a bath while traveling. The fact that everything you need is taken care of is proof that this is a comfortable hotel.

"Well, shall we have a toast?"

After returning from the large public bath, my wife looked refreshed and refreshed. I prepared some snacks such as cheese and nuts, and opened the wine I had just purchased.

"I didn't know there was a winery in Kyoto."
"I'm enjoying Kyoto sake in Kyoto. Maybe that's why it tastes even better than usual."

At 5:00am, when it was still light outside, I got up early and headed to Kyoto Central Market. This is the first central wholesale market opened in Japan, and various food ingredients such as fruits and vegetables, seafood, and processed foods are bought and sold here. It is truly a place that supports Kyoto's food culture.

"Clang clang clang"

When the sound of a big bell is heard, everyone gathers together and the auction begins. The auction progresses steadily with lively shouts.

At Restaurant "Umegoromo" on the first floor of the hotel, you can enjoy a buffet-style breakfast with both Japanese and Western dishes. At the back of the restaurant, there is a live kitchen that serves freshly made omelets and pressed sandwiches.

"I'm interested in the pressed sandwich, but I think I'll go for the omelette instead."
"There's something about freshly made things that really appeals to me."

As we were having this conversation, the freshly made, soft and creamy omelette was completed in no time.

Popular menu items include salads with fresh vegetables sourced from Kyoto Central Market, and curry with the restaurant's signature spices. As usual, my wife chose Japanese food and I chose Western food. It's also nice to share a little bit of each of our favorite foods, as much as we like.

"Where are you going now today?"

While enjoying breakfast, I leisurely make plans.

At the recommendation of my wife, who loves history, we came to the Shimabara area.
The Shimabara area was once a red-light district lined with brothels housing highly skilled tayu and geisha, and it is said that it was a place where intellectuals and Shinsengumi patriots gathered to hold banquets.

Beyond Shimabara Daimon, which sits quietly in a residential area, a stone-paved road continues. Just walking along the road, you can feel the dignity and atmosphere of history, and the quietness of the place makes it very charming.

I was feeling a bit hungry so I decided to have an early lunch.
In fact, Umekoji is dotted with retro coffee shops. Among them, "Coffee Shop Nasu" has been in business for nearly 60 years. As an avid curry lover, it is a jazz coffee shop where you can eat the owner's special curry, so it is a place I really wanted to go.

They specialize in siphon Coffee and curry, which are carefully brewed one cup at a time. Tell your order to the friendly owner, Mr. Nasu.

"Two pork cutlet curries, please."

With those words, the chef disappears into the back of the store. A little while later, a plate of crispy breaded pork cutlet and spicy curry surrounded by a bank of rice is brought out. I heard that it takes eight hours to prepare the curry every day.

"Mmm! It's delicious. Sweet...? But the spiciness kicks in after a while."
"It has a rich flavor and goes perfectly with Coffee!"

While the regular customers quietly enjoy Coffee and cigarettes at the counter, I sip my iced Coffee with light jazz playing in the background and absentmindedly devour my curry, finishing it off in one go.

• This article and images are current as of July 2024.